A closer look at custom rod building

Custom rod builder Scott Dobbins provides a brief tutorial on how to build your own rods.

Due to the fog delay on Day 2 of the 2015 Toyota Bonus Bucks Bassmaster Team Championship, which was eventually postponed, my camera boat driver, who is also a school teacher, has a custom rod building business on the side. Since our day ended early, Scott Dobbins of TigeRodz asked if I wanted to build a rod in the down time. That was an easy decision and great way to beat poor weather during a tournament. <br>
<br>
TigeRodz is run out of his basement in Scottsboro, Ala., where I was about to get a first-class education in DIY rod construction.<br>
<br>
Here you can see a pile of Rain Shadow blanks awaiting his personal touch.
Due to the fog delay on Day 2 of the 2015 Toyota Bonus Bucks Bassmaster Team Championship, which was eventually postponed, my camera boat driver, who is also a school teacher, has a custom rod building business on the side. Since our day ended early, Scott Dobbins of TigeRodz asked if I wanted to build a rod in the down time. That was an easy decision and great way to beat poor weather during a tournament.
TigeRodz is run out of his basement in Scottsboro, Ala., where I was about to get a first-class education in DIY rod construction.
Here you can see a pile of Rain Shadow blanks awaiting his personal touch.
The first task is to determine spline. He explained that if the spline is not lined up correctly, a rod may twist and not create a true arc when it's under load, which can reduce the action and sensitivity. To make sure all the rod components are installed correctly, he holds the rod near the tip and places each part based on the natural bend of the blank.
The first task is to determine spline. He explained that if the spline is not lined up correctly, a rod may twist and not create a true arc when it’s under load, which can reduce the action and sensitivity. To make sure all the rod components are installed correctly, he holds the rod near the tip and places each part based on the natural bend of the blank.
He then lines each rod up against a template blank to determine where the cork or foam handles, reel seat and each guide need to be installed.
He then lines each rod up against a template blank to determine where the cork or foam handles, reel seat and each guide need to be installed.
By marking each location, he knows exactly where the components needs to go.
By marking each location, he knows exactly where the components needs to go.
A grease pencil does the job because it's easy to see, and cleans off when the job is completed.
A grease pencil does the job because it’s easy to see, and cleans off when the job is completed.
Then the handle cork and reel seat are selected based on each rod. Foam grips are available, as well.
Then the handle cork and reel seat are selected based on each rod. Foam grips are available, as well.
To make sure the handles fit onto the blank, he bores out the inside by hand to make sure the fit is perfect.
To make sure the handles fit onto the blank, he bores out the inside by hand to make sure the fit is perfect.
Each piece has a mark on the blank, and once the necessary sanding has been completed the items are placed accordingly.
Each piece has a mark on the blank, and once the necessary sanding has been completed the items are placed accordingly.
Same with the butt of the rod.
Same with the butt of the rod.
The grip components are slid onto the blank from the top.
The grip components are slid onto the blank from the top.
The rod is then placed back on the wrapping machine and he levels the reel seat perpendicular to the spline, which is marked by the white line just to the right of the level.
The rod is then placed back on the wrapping machine and he levels the reel seat perpendicular to the spline, which is marked by the white line just to the right of the level.
This gasket-looking thing is called a winding check, which is used to secure the reel seat to the blank, and is later tied to the blank before being finished with a glossy flexcoat.
This gasket-looking thing is called a winding check, which is used to secure the reel seat to the blank, and is later tied to the blank before being finished with a glossy flexcoat.
Here the winding check is placed where it needs to be prior to being glued in.
Here the winding check is placed where it needs to be prior to being glued in.
Dobbins places the grip components on the blank to make sure they fit as expected before applying the adhesive.
Dobbins places the grip components on the blank to make sure they fit as expected before applying the adhesive.
Ready for glue.
Ready for glue.
He then grabs the required hardware.
He then grabs the required hardware.
Guides.
Guides.
The exclusive TigeRodz brand sticker.
The exclusive TigeRodz brand sticker.
This is a good idea: Each of these components are small and can easily be dropped, which if you've ever dealt with things like this, they never hit the floor and stay in one spot. Rather, they bounce and disappear. He keeps each piece in a small cup and grabs what he needs when the time comes. Organization is key.
This is a good idea: Each of these components are small and can easily be dropped, which if you’ve ever dealt with things like this, they never hit the floor and stay in one spot. Rather, they bounce and disappear. He keeps each piece in a small cup and grabs what he needs when the time comes. Organization is key.
He prefers a slower setting epoxy so he doesn't have to rush this part of the process. The adhesive sets in about 15 minutes, but will need 24 hours to fully cure.
He prefers a slower setting epoxy so he doesn’t have to rush this part of the process. The adhesive sets in about 15 minutes, but will need 24 hours to fully cure.
Tongue depressors, or popsicle sticks handle the goo. He says that mixing isn't a very scientific process, and that it's pretty easy to eyeball the correct amounts.
Tongue depressors, or popsicle sticks handle the goo. He says that mixing isn’t a very scientific process, and that it’s pretty easy to eyeball the correct amounts.
The mixing process begins.
The mixing process begins.
He slowly spins the rod on the wrapping machine and lets the motion of the blank help evenly spread the epoxy.
He slowly spins the rod on the wrapping machine and lets the motion of the blank help evenly spread the epoxy.
He slides the grip into position with a slight rotating motion.
He slides the grip into position with a slight rotating motion.
Wipes away any excess epoxy.
Wipes away any excess epoxy.
Repeats the same process for the hand grip.
Repeats the same process for the hand grip.
The reel seat and grip are slid into position.
The reel seat and grip are slid into position.
The butt piece gets the same treatment.
The butt piece gets the same treatment.
Dobbins adds a little epoxy to the bottom of the interior butt piece.
Dobbins adds a little epoxy to the bottom of the interior butt piece.
Fills the inside of the cork base with epoxy before sliding it on the blank.
Fills the inside of the cork base with epoxy before sliding it on the blank.
The last piece of cork is installed.
The last piece of cork is installed.
Dobbins says it's very important to clean off the excess epoxy from the cork using rubbing alcohol.
Dobbins says it’s very important to clean off the excess epoxy from the cork using rubbing alcohol.
Wherever there is a joint, the adhesive tends to seep out. This is where he suggests the builder pay close attention.
Wherever there is a joint, the adhesive tends to seep out. This is where he suggests the builder pay close attention.
The winding check gets some epoxy as well.
The winding check gets some epoxy as well.
Any epoxy that was left over on the rod blank needs to be cleaned with acetone. Make sure your work area is well ventilated for this part of the process.
Any epoxy that was left over on the rod blank needs to be cleaned with acetone. Make sure your work area is well ventilated for this part of the process.
He'll employ the convenience of the wrapping machine to carefully clean the blank.
He’ll employ the convenience of the wrapping machine to carefully clean the blank.
Now the the handle components are set, you can see how he has situated the spline to accommodate the accessories. Dobbins says that the pistol grip portion of the reel seat needs to point straight down without a twist. Typically, when a rod gets to this point in the process, he'll set it down and let the glue cure overnight before he begins tying in the guides.
Now the the handle components are set, you can see how he has situated the spline to accommodate the accessories. Dobbins says that the pistol grip portion of the reel seat needs to point straight down without a twist. Typically, when a rod gets to this point in the process, he’ll set it down and let the glue cure overnight before he begins tying in the guides.
After he rod grip has cured for 24 hours, he begins the tying process. Dobbins uses hot glue to attach each guide at a previously marked location along the blank's spline. A small candle is lit, and he quickly heats the line guide in the flame before touching it to a glue stick that sits directly above the wrapping machine.
After he rod grip has cured for 24 hours, he begins the tying process. Dobbins uses hot glue to attach each guide at a previously marked location along the blank’s spline. A small candle is lit, and he quickly heats the line guide in the flame before touching it to a glue stick that sits directly above the wrapping machine.
The hot guide grabs a dab of glue.
The hot guide grabs a dab of glue.
The guide is then placed in it's specified location before thread is added.
The guide is then placed in it’s specified location before thread is added.
Now the guide is ready to be tied in.
Now the guide is ready to be tied in.
Dobbins says this part is where the right equipment makes the job very simple, but it takes practice. Don't expect your first rod to be perfect. After thousands of rods pushed through his shop, he's become very proficient at this process.
Dobbins says this part is where the right equipment makes the job very simple, but it takes practice. Don’t expect your first rod to be perfect. After thousands of rods pushed through his shop, he’s become very proficient at this process.
He'll make a few wraps by hand before turning the wrapping machine. He suggests wrapping the thread over itself several times to prevent it from slipping around the blank. Then trim the tag end.
He’ll make a few wraps by hand before turning the wrapping machine. He suggests wrapping the thread over itself several times to prevent it from slipping around the blank. Then trim the tag end.
Slowly spin the rod and let the thread wrap against itself, but don't let it overlap. The finished product will look much nicer with an even wrap.
Slowly spin the rod and let the thread wrap against itself, but don’t let it overlap. The finished product will look much nicer with an even wrap.
As he finishes the wrapping, he temporarily ties in a looped piece of thread. The loop on the right-hand side of this image is where you'll insert the tag end once cut from the bobbin. Pull the temporary loop towards the butt end of the rod and snug up the thread.
As he finishes the wrapping, he temporarily ties in a looped piece of thread. The loop on the right-hand side of this image is where you’ll insert the tag end once cut from the bobbin. Pull the temporary loop towards the butt end of the rod and snug up the thread.
Trim the tag end, and move onto the next guide.
Trim the tag end, and move onto the next guide.
This guide is now ready for the finish coat.
This guide is now ready for the finish coat.
The glossy flexcoat needs to be specifically mixed before application. It's a hardener/resin combination that really shines once it's dry. But, most importantly, it adequately secures each guide in place.
The glossy flexcoat needs to be specifically mixed before application. It’s a hardener/resin combination that really shines once it’s dry. But, most importantly, it adequately secures each guide in place.
Dobbins has found that the epoxy-like flexcoat mixture will remain pliable longer if it's in contact with aluminum. He's concocted this small holder out of the base of a pop can, which also keeps the finish handy and reduces spillage.
Dobbins has found that the epoxy-like flexcoat mixture will remain pliable longer if it’s in contact with aluminum. He’s concocted this small holder out of the base of a pop can, which also keeps the finish handy and reduces spillage.
He works on a second rod wrapper that spins the rod to evenly apply the finish coat.
He works on a second rod wrapper that spins the rod to evenly apply the finish coat.
The wrapping machine is operated like a sewing machine with a pedal. Dobbins selects the speed and steps on the pedal to turn the rod as the flexcoat is applied.
The wrapping machine is operated like a sewing machine with a pedal. Dobbins selects the speed and steps on the pedal to turn the rod as the flexcoat is applied.
He keeps a steady supply of disposable paint brushes on hand for this part of the process.
He keeps a steady supply of disposable paint brushes on hand for this part of the process.
Once each guide has been coated, he keeps an alcohol bubble torch on hand. This nifty tool is used to remove any bubbles and imperfections that may occur when the flexcoat is applied.
Once each guide has been coated, he keeps an alcohol bubble torch on hand. This nifty tool is used to remove any bubbles and imperfections that may occur when the flexcoat is applied.
A gentle squeeze will force the flame sideways to place concentrated heat exactly where it needs to go Dobbins warns to not to get too close with the flame or the finish could burn.
A gentle squeeze will force the flame sideways to place concentrated heat exactly where it needs to go Dobbins warns to not to get too close with the flame or the finish could burn.
Once each guide has been secured into place with the glossy flexcoat, it's ready to be placed on a drying machine for six hours before a final cure.
Once each guide has been secured into place with the glossy flexcoat, it’s ready to be placed on a drying machine for six hours before a final cure.
It's pretty sharp once completed.
It’s pretty sharp once completed.
Thanks for the tutorial, Scott! <br>
<br>
He mentioned that building your own rod is a very satisfying accomplishment. If you're a DIY kinda angler, I suggest you look into building your own. Or, if you happen to be a rod junkie like me, you could even speak with him about developing something specific, or order one his many models.
Thanks for the tutorial, Scott!
He mentioned that building your own rod is a very satisfying accomplishment. If you’re a DIY kinda angler, I suggest you look into building your own. Or, if you happen to be a rod junkie like me, you could even speak with him about developing something specific, or order one his many models.
There are many technique-specific rods available in the TigeRodz line, each hand crafted by a guy who loves to catch big bass on hand-made rods.
There are many technique-specific rods available in the TigeRodz line, each hand crafted by a guy who loves to catch big bass on hand-made rods.
<a href=
TigeRodz