Kayak manufacturers say don’t keep your plastic boat with just the bow and aft supported, which means many kayak trailers aren’t suitable for long-term storage. If you leave your boat resting on just two bars fore and aft, it could lead to a warped kayak. To modify this type of trailer, avert warping and allow your kayak to stay on it between fishing trips, add 3-inch PVC pipe to support most of your kayak’s hull.
Determine how far apart the PVC needs to be so it supports much of the hull, but isn’t so close together that the kayak atop becomes top-heavy and unstable.
Cut your PVC to leave just a couple inches of overhang.
All Captions: Dave Mull
Photo: Dave Mull
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Mark your holes so the pipes run parallel to each other and drill from the top, completely through the trailer’s square tubing.
Photo: Dave Mull
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Set the pipe directly over the holes and drill upward to create your bolt hole in the PVC.
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Put your bolt upward through the metal tube and into the PVC. First, put the washer over the bolt (you might need needle nose pliers). Next, coat your Nyloc nut with grease (or Vaseline) and stick it in a closed-end wrench to reach and place it on bolt inside the tube. Snug the bolt with a ratchet, but don’t over tighten, which can crack the PVC.
Photo: Dave Mull
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Sand (or use a RotoZip) to smooth the sharp PVC edges at the rear of the trailer so the pipe doesn’t gouge your yak when you slide it on.
Photo: Dave Mull
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