How-To

Keeping your bass boat alive, part 8

Trailer maintenance is just as important as boat upkeep, and wheel bearings are especially vulnerable to failure.

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<em>All photos and captions by Mark Hicks</em> <br>Trailer maintenance is just as important as the upkeep on your boat. Your boat spends most of its life resting on a trailer. And the trailer must safely carry your boat to bass waters near and far and back home again. <p>The trailer’s wheel bearings are especially vulnerable because they are submerged whenever the boat is launched and loaded. Even with bearing protectors, which are essential, it’s a good idea to repack the bearings every year. A failed bearing could leave you stranded far from home and could possibly cause an accident. <p>REPACKING WHEEL BEARINGS <br>To repack wheel bearings you’ll need grease, pliers, a hammer and a grease gun. Add to this plenty of old rags and a block of wood.
All photos and captions by Mark Hicks
Trailer maintenance is just as important as the upkeep on your boat. Your boat spends most of its life resting on a trailer. And the trailer must safely carry your boat to bass waters near and far and back home again.

The trailer’s wheel bearings are especially vulnerable because they are submerged whenever the boat is launched and loaded. Even with bearing protectors, which are essential, it’s a good idea to repack the bearings every year. A failed bearing could leave you stranded far from home and could possibly cause an accident.
REPACKING WHEEL BEARINGS
To repack wheel bearings you’ll need grease, pliers, a hammer and a grease gun. Add to this plenty of old rags and a block of wood.

Use the hammer and block of wood to remove the bearing protector. Whack opposite sides of the protector until it pops free.
Use the hammer and block of wood to remove the bearing protector. Whack opposite sides of the protector until it pops free.
Use pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin that prevents the nut from backing out.
Use pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin that prevents the nut from backing out.
Remove the nut retainer, if you have one. Many trailers will have a castle nut, which doesn’t need a retainer.
Remove the nut retainer, if you have one. Many trailers will have a castle nut, which doesn’t need a retainer.
Unscrew the nut and the big washer beneath it.
Unscrew the nut and the big washer beneath it.
Remove the outer wheel bearing that lies under the big washer.
Remove the outer wheel bearing that lies under the big washer.
Pull the hub off the axle and turn it over. The inside wheel bearing lies under a seal. I punched the seal out by tapping on a screwdriver from the opposite side. Take care not to tap on the race that the bearing rides on or to damage the seal. A damaged seal must be replaced.
Pull the hub off the axle and turn it over. The inside wheel bearing lies under a seal. I punched the seal out by tapping on a screwdriver from the opposite side. Take care not to tap on the race that the bearing rides on or to damage the seal. A damaged seal must be replaced.
The inside wheel bearing lies under the seal.
The inside wheel bearing lies under the seal.
Use clean rags to wipe old grease from the wheel bearings, as well as from the races that the bearings ride on and the space between the races inside the hub.
Use clean rags to wipe old grease from the wheel bearings, as well as from the races that the bearings ride on and the space between the races inside the hub.
Repeatedly push the wide edge of the bearing through the edge of the grease and forcefully slide it across your palm. This will push new grease into the bearing and flush the old grease out. Wipe away the old grease, rotate the bearing and repeat until you come full circle.
Repeatedly push the wide edge of the bearing through the edge of the grease and forcefully slide it across your palm. This will push new grease into the bearing and flush the old grease out. Wipe away the old grease, rotate the bearing and repeat until you come full circle.
After both bearings have been packed with fresh grease, apply grease to both races. Place the inside wheel bearing in place and reinstall the seal. Use a wood block between the seal and the hammer to avoid damaging the seal.
After both bearings have been packed with fresh grease, apply grease to both races. Place the inside wheel bearing in place and reinstall the seal. Use a wood block between the seal and the hammer to avoid damaging the seal.
Slide the hub back onto the axle. Place the outside bearing on the axle so it rests against its race, followed by the big washer and the nut. Tighten the nut until it stops. Then back off one notch if you have a castle nut. Do not over-tighten. The hub should make one or two rotations when you spin it.
Slide the hub back onto the axle. Place the outside bearing on the axle so it rests against its race, followed by the big washer and the nut. Tighten the nut until it stops. Then back off one notch if you have a castle nut. Do not over-tighten. The hub should make one or two rotations when you spin it.
Replace the retainer if you have one. Insert the cotter pin and bend it over to lock it in place.
Replace the retainer if you have one. Insert the cotter pin and bend it over to lock it in place.
Reinstall the bearing protector, using the hammer and wood block. Then fill the hub with grease until the spring-loaded cap pushes in when you press on one side of it. Do not overfill.
Reinstall the bearing protector, using the hammer and wood block. Then fill the hub with grease until the spring-loaded cap pushes in when you press on one side of it. Do not overfill.
Place a cap on the bearing protector and you’re ready for another year of safe trailering.
Place a cap on the bearing protector and you’re ready for another year of safe trailering.

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