How-To

Keeping your bass boat alive, part 1

Owning a tournament-worthy rig on a tight budget is possible; the first step is selecting the right boat and motor.

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<em>All photos and captions by Mark Hicks</em> <br>Before I could embark on this
All photos and captions by Mark Hicks
Before I could embark on this “How to keep your bass boat alive” series, I needed a bass boat to keep alive. I bought this boat for $4,500. This segment explains the steps I took to inspect the boat, motor and trailer before buying it. You should do the same to ensure you don’t waste time and money on a lemon.
Before inspecting a used boat, ask a trusted marine mechanic about problem areas with the outboard that powers it. I learned that this outboard is a reliable engine that has few issues.
Before inspecting a used boat, ask a trusted marine mechanic about problem areas with the outboard that powers it. I learned that this outboard is a reliable engine that has few issues.
The paint is worn off my skeg, but it doesn't appear to have taken hard hits that could damage the lower unit.
The paint is worn off my skeg, but it doesn’t appear to have taken hard hits that could damage the lower unit.
Look at the back of the prop dead on, and spin it by hand. If the shaft wobbles, you're looking at a major repair bill.
Look at the back of the prop dead on, and spin it by hand. If the shaft wobbles, you’re looking at a major repair bill.
Back the bottom screw out of the lower unit just enough to let a little of the gear oil drain out.
Back the bottom screw out of the lower unit just enough to let a little of the gear oil drain out.
Milky or brown oil means there is water in the lower unit. At a minimum, new seals are needed. My boat had new gear oil because the engine had been winterized. However, the previous owner still had the old oil in a 2-liter soda bottle. It looked fine.
Milky or brown oil means there is water in the lower unit. At a minimum, new seals are needed. My boat had new gear oil because the engine had been winterized. However, the previous owner still had the old oil in a 2-liter soda bottle. It looked fine.
Connect muffs to a water hose. Start the engine, and let it warm up prior to the compression test. While the engine is running, see if the outboard shifts smoothly into forward and reverse.
Connect muffs to a water hose. Start the engine, and let it warm up prior to the compression test. While the engine is running, see if the outboard shifts smoothly into forward and reverse.
Also, make sure the outboard is
Also, make sure the outboard is “peeing.” This tells you the water is circulating through the cooling system.
After the outboard idles for five to 10 minutes, shut it off. Remove and replace the spark plugs one at a time while doing the compression test.
After the outboard idles for five to 10 minutes, shut it off. Remove and replace the spark plugs one at a time while doing the compression test.
Screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole. Disconnect the kill switch or the ignition battery so the engine can't start. Then turn the engine over for three to four seconds.
Screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole. Disconnect the kill switch or the ignition battery so the engine can’t start. Then turn the engine over for three to four seconds.
The compression for all six cylinders in my Mercury ranges from 120 to 125 psi, which is within specs for this engine. If you see more than 15 pounds of variance, walk away or brace for a major repair bill.
The compression for all six cylinders in my Mercury ranges from 120 to 125 psi, which is within specs for this engine. If you see more than 15 pounds of variance, walk away or brace for a major repair bill.
Check the transom carefully. Hairline cracks may not be an issue. Anything more than that nixes the boat. My transom was free of cracks.
Check the transom carefully. Hairline cracks may not be an issue. Anything more than that nixes the boat. My transom was free of cracks.
Look for hull damage around the bow eye.
Look for hull damage around the bow eye.
Also inspect the hull's bottom for chips. I found some minor scratches. No big deal.
Also inspect the hull’s bottom for chips. I found some minor scratches. No big deal.
Although the sides of my boat are dull, there is enough clear coat to rejuvenate the shine. Had the UV damage eaten through to the metalflake, I would have bought it. The gel on top is fine, thanks to a boat cover.
Although the sides of my boat are dull, there is enough clear coat to rejuvenate the shine. Had the UV damage eaten through to the metalflake, I would have bought it. The gel on top is fine, thanks to a boat cover.
I expected the carpeting to be shot in such an old boat. I was right. To replace it with a good marine carpet and glue will run about $300.
I expected the carpeting to be shot in such an old boat. I was right. To replace it with a good marine carpet and glue will run about $300.
I also figured that I would need to replace the seats. I was surprised to find that the original upholstery was in good condition. That'll help pay for the carpeting.
I also figured that I would need to replace the seats. I was surprised to find that the original upholstery was in good condition. That’ll help pay for the carpeting.
Are the bilge and livewell pumps working? Mine do, but this wouldn't have been a deal killer. I'll replace them anyway as a preventative measure.
Are the bilge and livewell pumps working? Mine do, but this wouldn’t have been a deal killer. I’ll replace them anyway as a preventative measure.
Inspect the bilge area for possible damage. Be mindful of gas tank connections and the smell of gas. You don't want to deal with a leaking gas tank.
Inspect the bilge area for possible damage. Be mindful of gas tank connections and the smell of gas. You don’t want to deal with a leaking gas tank.
Check the tread on the tires and replace as necessary. The rims on my trailer need some cleaning, but should polish nicely. The surge brakes and lights checked out.
Check the tread on the tires and replace as necessary. The rims on my trailer need some cleaning, but should polish nicely. The surge brakes and lights checked out.
Finally, rust is the major problem with this trailer, and it will require sandblasting. I'll probably refinish it with a truck bed coating. The good news is that the previous owner had recently replaced the trailer's bunks. If you are interested in more boat maintenance tips, watch the video series <a href=http://www.bassmaster.com/series/keeping-your-bass-boat-alive>here</a>.
Finally, rust is the major problem with this trailer, and it will require sandblasting. I’ll probably refinish it with a truck bed coating. The good news is that the previous owner had recently replaced the trailer’s bunks.

If you are interested in more boat maintenance tips, watch the video series here.

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